For example, for a skirt, baste the pieces along the waistline. Baste the overlay to the main fabric along the remaining seams. The wrong side of the overlay should face the right side of the main skirt. Place the overlay over the main fabric units. This leaves a gap in the overlay, allowing the zipper to be opened and closed, but allows the overlay to hang loose from the zipper. Sew the overlay seam closed below the zipper opening. Install the zipper in the opening you left in the main fabric. For example, if you are making a skirt with a left side seam zipper, finish each raw edge of the left side seam separately with a tiny hem. Instead, finish each side of the seam separately with a rolled hem or a baby hem. On the overlay, do not sew the seam that holds the zipper. If you are making a full skirt with a waistband, leave an opening for the zipper on the main pieces, as you usually would. Note that the zipper is sewn with both layers together at the top,īut the layers are separate below the zipper opening. For example, if you are making a dress with a fitted top and full skirt, you may want to use one overlay technique for the bodice and a different one for the bottom. You may even want to use different methods for various parts of the same garment. On the other hand, if your garment is worn close to the body, this is not a concern, and you can place the overlay on top of the main fabric before constructing your seams. If your intent is to have the overlay float atop the main fabric, it's important that the overlay and main fabric are sewn together in as few places as possible. Do you intend for your garment to be fitted with an overlay that just lends texture or tone to the fabric? Or do you want an overlay that floats away from the body, such as on a full skirt? For a skirt such as the Bristol shown here, cut the waistband, front, and back pieces.īefore deciding how you'd like to construct your garment, consider the overall design lines. Use only the main fabric to cut interior pieces such as pockets and facings from the main fabric. Tweak your Bristol skirt pattern to add a sheer layer.Ĭut each of the main pattern pieces from both the overlay fabric as well as the main fabric. These are very small, enclosed seams within the garment, which work best on lightweight fabrics. The best choice for sheer fabrics is a narrow French seam. Large, bulky seams with obvious stitching should be avoided. Avoid heavier silk thread or low quality polyester thread, which is prone to tangling and fraying.įor seams, the goal is to make them as invisible as possible. Sheer fabrics can be sewn with either high-quality all-purpose polyester thread or a lightweight silk thread. Use a sharp needle when sewing sheer fabrics, in size 60/8, 65/9, or 70/10. Stabilizer washes out after sewing, returning your fabric to its original pre-washed condition. Once the stabilizer dries, the fabric will feel crisp and papery and will be less prone to shifting during both the cutting and sewing process. Pre-wash all fabric and then apply a spray stabilizer such as Sullivans to the sheer layer. Stabilize the fabric before cutting to make this process easier. The chiffon on the right has been treated with stabilizer. Spray stabilizer will give more crispness to sheer fabrics.
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